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One learned that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 2

Four hundred grams waxy potatoes, cut into four-centimeter chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
Two cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then drain them and leave to steam dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a bowl of boiling water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Pour the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, topped with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.